I call this “Charity’s Headboard” because I donated it to an auction to benefit a family. I don’t know who actually ended up with it, so I will just call her “Charity.”
Hey! You know what’s better than a list of dimensions and materials? PICTURES!
Now that we have the “abstract” version, we can look at real photos.
As you can see, I’m still using brackets to connect the pieces. I’m venturing into wood glue and staples, but I need a better stapler (I hope Santa gets my list.)
As you can see, I placed one bracket on the sides of the pine, one bracket on the sides of the MDF and typically a few nails and screws thrown in there for good luck.
This is also the point that I decide where I am going to place my buttons for my tufts. If I am going to be completely honest, I am still working on getting the spacing right. There is a formula (THAT I PROMISE I WILL POST IN DETAIL ONCE I DECIDE I LIKE TO DO ALGEBRA AGAIN) that proves the exact relationship between the height of the tufts, the density of the padding and the distance between the buttons. But until then, the back of the headboards may look something like this…
Seriously, this looks like a J.V. football playbook. At this point I figured it didn’t matter because I needed to pull a Hail Mary in either case. Basically, I picked my favorite X’s and drilled.
The easiest part of all? Stapling on the padding! I mean really, it can be lumpy and fluffy all over. It just has to be present. I trim around the edges if there is excess after stapling, but (if I measure even close to correctly) that usually isn’t necessary.
Then comes the kicker. You know, that moment when you choose a fabric that you think is fantastic but it turns out to look like a wet sheet when you put it on the headboard? Yeah, that happens sometimes.
Obviously I am not proud of this green monster, but the fabric looked so pretty in my hands! It caught the light so well! It was beautiful and iridescent and fun. However, apparently when it is stretched across a flat plane it looks like I tried to cover it with old church curtains. So I ripped them off and went to buy more fabric.
I took a tip from Brandi’s Headboard and bought something a little more dramatic.
As you can see from behind, it is very necessary to make slits in the material in order to maneuver around the curves smoothly. It gets scary because you need to make the slits very close to the top; just make sure you don’t make them longer than necessary.
Basically, I made the cuts as I went, so I knew how much room I had until I rounded the top toward the front.
(I’m cutting to the chase with the tufts. I’m a wild woman!)
If you are curious about the tufting details, Brandi’s headboard has a more in-depth look at the trials and tribulations of tufting. As for Charity’s headboard? I did not have the forethought to take pictures of the process as I was a bit under the gun (not literally, silly.)
As far as my button spacing? There was a method to the madness.
1. The buttons were $2 each, so I really didn’t want to use many (especially after buying fabric twice.)
2. The headboard starts 30″ from the floor, so the lower portion of blue that is without buttons will be mostly covered by pillows.
3. The fabric is loud enough to handle fewer buttons. If I would have stuck with my original “monk-robe green” fabric then I would have to use about 10 packs of buttons to liven-up that dullness.
After the tufts and buttons, I flipped over the headboard and camouflaged the nonsense on the back. Any breathable fabric will do; I chose this because it was $1 a yard and I’ve seen it on furniture in the past. It’s basically black gauze and it’s FANTASTIC.
Finally I hauled the headboard to my bed frame and outlined the hole marks. Once I drilled the holes (wide enough for carriage screws) I used two coats of my rub-on Polyurethane.
Then I sat down and contemplated how I could do this cheaper, faster and more efficiently while making it chicer, sturdier and more uniform.